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ann_oliver
COPYRIGHT © TEXT AND IMAGES ANN OLIVER 2025 UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED
thelma
piccadilly
176 Piccadilly Road,
PICCADILLY
South Australia 5151
OPEN :
lunch Friday to Sunday – 12 noon until 2.30 pm
dinner Saturday – 6.00 pm until 10.00 pm
website : click here
reservations : click here
phone : not available
email : hello@thelmapiccadilly.com.au
instagram : click here
owners : Olivia Moore, Tom Campbell, James Spreadbury
chef : Tom Campbell
front of house on our visit : Amber Kennedy and Sam Rogers
AO 2 august 2025
PICTURED above the light-filled dining room at thelma
image © copyright thelma piccadilly
It’s a cold but sunny Sunday, and on our short drive from the city to Thelma we are very excited. One bestie has a bottle of 2008 Champagne Billecart- Salmon Elisabeth Salmon Rosé and the other, a 2020 Domaine Roulot Meursault. The wine is excitement enough.
The hills are blessedly covered with a thin film of green, not enough to get through summer, but at least a start, and at least an improvement from the very depressing brown dirt of May this year. Our friend from Canberra and one of our number have been to Otherness Angaston for lunch on Friday, third visit for both and raving about the entire experience.
Thelma was my choice because I’d been hearing very good things. I’m always anxious not to spoil the experience for everyone, and had my fingers crossed.
As it turned out, there was no need for anxiety.
The long-suffering front-of-house staff on the day, Amber Kennedy and Sam Rogers were fabulous. I don’t like sharing, and I don’t like chef’s menu or ‘feed me’ menus. The rest of the table were up for the ‘chefs menu’ and my refusal put a spanner in the works. Amber and Sam never needed to go back to the kitchen to ask anything, and graciously sorted courses for three instead of two.
just shucked
The Champagne opened, and approved of by the gifter, Madame Palmer; so delicious, so elegant, such a long finish…three of our number started with a Cape Bauer oyster [Local supplier, Atlanta Oyster & Seafood, Ronald Street, Thebarton.] Served au naturel, a seedless, tiny, perfectly sized wedge of just-cut lemon, and some fermented chilli. The chilli was avoided because it would have spoiled the Champagne. The oysters were perfect, but being such an old person, it is astonishing to me that if I wanted a dozen at six dollars each, a dozen would cost seventy-two dollars. WTF!!!
I remember when a dozen with a sliver of lime and wasabi flying fish roe cost twelve dollars. I also remember arguments with one of my bosses, the late Bill Sparr, when in 1998, opening the Radisson Adelaide [now the Sebel], he wanted to change twelve to ten and keep the same price. It was the start of a slippery slope. My mate, chef Tony Carroll, will remember my email telling him ten oysters was un-Australian! From memory, they were then forty dollars. Of course, he thought I was hilarious, but I was serious. I’d still like to order a dozen oysters here and there, but I’ll be having them, just shucked, at home for about twenty dollars.
so much deliciousness
A single serve of Bread and butter [pictured left] was ordered….perfect, and a second serve was ordered when it was clear about halfway through the meal that we needed it to wipe our plates clean.
Chicken liver parfait, boozy prunes [pictured left] was precisely what it said. A perfect silken chicken liver parfait, marinated prunes unusually, but happily, with their stones, and a perfect amount of dressed radicchio to cut back on the richness of the parfait and the natural sweetness of the prunes.
At this point, nothing I’d ordered had appeared. I did have a little taste of everything that came to the table, but I learned many years ago, to truly judge a dish, you need to eat at least ninety per cent of it. A mouthful can be utterly delicious, a full portion may be something entirely different. Many, many years ago, the fabulous Jan MacKenzie [Café Sydney], when working at Mistress Augustine’s, challenged me to eat three courses of my food and not feel sick!!! This amazing woman was tough and even though I was the owner, I was terrified of her. Jan was right, most of my portions were too generous and too rich, and her very frank feedback improved my food.
Sourcing fish in South Australia is extremely difficult at the moment. Not just because of the horrendous algae bloom, but because of the prohibitive cost of respecting local and seasonal. Port Lincoln sardines, Olasagasti anchovies [pictured below left] received purrs of approval. The sardines were soused, so still basically raw, the anchovy provided a wonderful salty foil. The tiny, paper-thin slice of lemon was the perfect acidic embellishment to the oiliness of the fish. I’m already feeling relaxed, everything on the plate has been edible, and it is already clear there is a farm or two bolstering this food. We are loving the random plates, with, thank heavens, none of those cheap, crappy copies of sixties ceramics that set your teeth on edge. I am sure they have mainly come from op-shops, or maybe a dead auntie or their nanna, but they are gorgeous. It is also nostalgic for me because we always had random plates at Mistress Augustine’s.
By this time the 2020 Domaine Roulot Meursault is open and poured. More heaven and although the Champagne loved the salty oil of the sardines and olive oil, the Meursault embraced the raw whiting, pigs ear and offal sausage like a favourite sister.
Raw whiting, urchin, cumquat one of my choices, [pictured below] arrived…more beauty on a plate. It is absolutely exquisite for everyone but me, only because I detest lemon myrtle. It is such an overpowering flavour and perfume that reminds me of cleaning products. For such a delicate dish, it was unnecessary, as the ingredients needed no additional flavouring.
Raw dry-aged beef, beetroot, sunflower, cheese garum [pictured] yet another plate of bliss, the earthiness of the beetroot a perfect foil. Only because we are greedy, a little more of the cheese garum would have been good. To be honest, although I know what garum is, I have absolutely no clue what cheese garum is and should have asked Tom, but it tasted great and was a wonderful condiment.
By now you are probably realising we have ordered almost everything on the menu, in fact we missed just one dish; Chickpeas en papillote, charcuterie offcuts, octopus head [next time if it’s still on the menu].
unique dishes
Next Fresh kefir curd, braised greens [pictured below]; the curd could have used a bit more salt, but the greens were exquisite and complex, so complex I had no clue what they were. By this time I have asked so many questions, I am thinking I will have received the title of annoying old person; however, in my defence, I could never have guessed; spigarello, peracicaba broccoli, cavolo nero and the outer leaves of puntarelle braised with onion, cumin, chilli, lemon and olive oil. We are now in love with the chef, I can name on one hand the chefs in Adelaide and close by who even know of such ingredients. The chilli was perfectly restrained, and the last of the greens were fought over.
Raw dry-aged beef, beetroot, sunflower, cheese garum
King George Whiting, brassicas, rocket
puntarelle wow!
My second choice appears Pig’s ear, puntarelle, anchovy [pictured left]. Absolutely stunning, every morsel perfectly dressed with the anchovy dressing, and I am tempted to spear the hands of those who professed not to eat offal, who suddenly seem to want to eat more than their ten per cent share.
King George Whiting, brassicas, rocket [pictured above] was another testament to great produce. The green sauce was beautifully balanced, not to overpower the whiting, and even the kale was tasty.
My last choice, the Offal sausage, mustard, mustard leaf was another triumph, but was nothing like I expected. I had been thinking blood, liver, kidney, tripe…but Tom’s offal sausage, whilst delectable, was much more restrained and probably would not have been guessed as offal.
heavenly!
The last dish Lamb loin, whey sauce, radiccio, almond. It has been a very long time since I have eaten a meat dish as good as this. Perfectly rare, not oozing blood, crispy fat on top, melt in the mouth tender and not wrecked with any seasoning other than salt and pepper. Sublime!
Rosa Del Veneto Chicory
Would we like dessert? Everyone but me groans. We order one of each, Honey Mousse and Burnt bread financier, keffir cream [both pictured below]. My dining companions are professing not to be able to eat another morsel, and I know they are lying. I’m proven right when both arrive and are immediately cut into four…damn!!!
feather light
The honey mousse has the texture of a cloud, silken, a tiny spike of salt and the honey was ever so slightly bitter. Perfection in all aspects apart from the olive oil. Yes, it was fruity, but what was the point? Bread puddings can be rather solid, this was light and delicate, but if the walnuts had been shelled, roasted and roughly chopped, they would have been distributed through the pudding… I know, absolute nitpicking in both cases!!!! I was the only one who thought either dessert could be improved, so what do I know?
about the team
Apart from the very visible cooking skill, there is a wonderful attention to seasonal produce at Thelma. It is not often that I see an ingredient I do not know or have not grown. The Rosa Del Veneto Chicory [pictured above right], for instance. My seeds arrived yesterday.
Much of their vegetable produce is sourced from Adelaide Hills Presqil [Tim Spreadbury] and Lucy Margaux, among other local producers. Tim [Presqil] goes to the Showgrounds Farmers Market and is currently taking a small winter break. We’ll keep you posted when he returns to the market.
Their dining room is filled with light, and even the shelf of empty bottles is spotlessly clean, casting coloured shadows in the sunlight. Thelma is still a child, having opened in May 2024, so just a year old, but their food and service were absolutely seamless. We put Thelma in the class of Fino Vino and Otherness, Angaston. All have the cooking firmly placed in the season, relationships with their growers and producers and don’t find the need to wreck an ingredient by turning it into something else.
THE CHEF TOM CAMPBELL comes with impressive credentials. Prior to Thelma, Tom worked at Leroy London [a Michelin-starred restaurant that closed in November 2024], Noma Japan, the Summertown Aristologist for four years and Africola, Adelaide. It is terrific to see Tom listed in Australian Gourmet Traveller’s Best New Talent 2025. Tom is hardly new talent, but such public recognition is always great for chef and team morale.
One of the owners, JAMES SPREADBURY, also has an impressive CV starting at a very young age at Windy Point Restaurant Adelaide to go on to have a senior front of house role for many years at Noma Copenhagen. A restaurant, as most would know, that was number one in the San Pellegrino Top 100 Restaurants in the world and for years in the first ten restaurants.
vegetarians welcome
The kitchen at Thelma will have no trouble adjusting their dishes to vegetarian. There is such a strong focus on vegetable content.
wine list
Interesting small wine list with orange wines clearly set to one side. Two of us had a glass of the 2024 Lucy M Sangiovese, Barbera, Nebbiolo, Adelaide Hills bottle $67. Wow! Just wow! Crushed cherry stones, with that arsenic back taste of the Sangiovese, given structure and complexity with the Barbera and Nebbiolo. Very modestly priced for the joy it gave.
They also accept BYO $35 per bottle corkage.
NO PHONE
I fail to understand why there isn’t a phone number. This applies to so many restaurants these days. What happens if we decide at 1.00 pm on a Saturday we want to eat at Thelma, and before we drive up there, would like to make sure there is a table??? What if there’s been an accident on the freeway and we’ll be very late…yes, we can email, but will it be seen?
Will any of below stop me from eating at Thelma…no! I love it and can’t wait to go back!
but, it has to be mentioned
If you have a hearing aid or a cochlear implant, the noise will be unbearable for you. They do have some outside seating, so wait for a perfect sunny, warm day and make sure you are sitting outside.
Thirty years ago, when consulting to the Sparr Group, the cafè at Windy Point had a severe noise problem. Astonishingly, at a time when food and service were at a low, the noise level was the only complaint the cafè received. Thirty thousand dollars was spent on an acoustic ceiling, a huge amount of money, and an amount that only a rich group operation would ever be able to find. In 2025 there are hundreds of solutions that cost almost nothing. When starting out, it can be hard to find money, but noise levels [and restaurant music] can ruin a dining experience. Today, a thousand bucks would solve the problem. Most of it can be cut with a Stanley knife, and an idiot can glue it to the ceiling.
Last moan; their toilet is shabby, cold and dark, and by late afternoon, there wasn’t any hand towel.
It’s reminiscent of the country cuzz’s outside loo, where they terrorised us kids with stories of their pet redback spider that would bite us on the bum if we weren’t quick. As a minimum, it needs a good clean, a lick of paint and a strip heater wouldn’t go astray. Add to that, regular toilet checks are basic for any restaurateur, from the simplest country eatery, to a three-Michelin-starred restaurant or one in the top one hundred.
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