river cafè
ADELAIDE

go straight to the review

River Cafè Adelaide
War Memorial Drive
North Adelaide
South Australia 5006

Open
Tuesday – Saturday lunch and dinner
Lunch from 12 noon
Dinner from 5.30 pm
Closed public holidays

email : info@rivercafe.com.au
make an a la carte booking

rivercafe.com.au
phone : 61 8211 8666
[phones are manned from 10.30 am until late]
Facebook

Executive Chef/Director – Ray Mauger
Front of House Manager [since forever] – Angelo Cirocco

AO 21 MAY 2024
A SPECTACULAR RIVER VIEW…THE RIVER TORRENS CAFÈ LOCATED ON THE GROUND FLOOR PHOTOGRAPHER JEREMY KHUU

WHAT A TREAT LUNCH
at THE RIVER CAFÈ
ADELAIDE

I love going out to lunch by myself and never understand why River Cafè isn’t constantly packed, especially Saturday lunch when the available good choices in Adelaide are next to nil. Best of all they nearly always have a deal, so generous it is hard to go resist. The deal is the price of a restaurant main course, and it makes me very cranky [some may say more cranky] when I go to a pub where a main course is almost the same price, usually pretty much inedible, no table service, a shitty paper serviette and hideous glassware.

The restaurant is housed in a historic modernist Adelaide building, designed by the architects Jack McConnell and Colin Hassell and first opened as Ernest’s restaurant in 1961. I am old enough to remember having dinner at Ernest’s even what I ate. A delicious kidney dish that I still make from time to time. At the time, I didn’t know how to boil an egg and I was cheeky enough to ask for the recipe. Just a teenager, definitely below legal drinking age with a sugar daddy boyfriend, bizarrely I remembered the recipe and many, many years later took it into my restaurant kitchen.

The interior décor was hideous a lot of red velvet and totally out of context for the beauty of the modernist building that deserved stylish Swedish minimalist furniture, lots of black leather and timber. In the subsequent years the building has had many incarnations but has now housed the River Cafè since 2011 and the Red Ochre Barrel + Grill on the first floor since 1999.

AUTUMN VIBES AT THE RIVER CAFÈ ADELAIDE

It is possible to see an identity crisis for the River Cafè because it looks so stylish, and has such a wonderful aspect. To put it in context, the food at the River Cafè is best described as good bistro-style food, especially in Autumn and Winter when there is plenty of good slow cooking using cheaper cuts that one can rarely find time to cook at home. Food that is tasty and approachable and although there are pepper and salt on the table I have never, in 20 plus years of dining there reached for the salt. A pepper fiend I like pepper being available without having to ask for it but never season my food without tasting it first. At my recent ‘Déjeuner Seule’ I did their Autumn Food Festival just $40 for house-made focaccia, a tasting plate, choice of six mains, and a perfect little sweet shot petit four to finish.

They make a decent focaccia and serve it with nice olive oil and balsamic. I was reminded of the horrid focaccia, that was more like an American biscuit we were recently served at an Adelaide Hills winery restaurant. Happily, no comparison and I had to hold myself back from demolishing the lot.

The tasting plate is set and is comprised of three large snack-sized morsels, each with individual flavours, this time a saffron arancini with aioli and parmesan….. whipped ricotta, grilled marinated vegetables, olive oil and crostini …..sticky balsamic pork belly with apple and pickled red cabbage. I’m in heaven watching the rowers and Popeye leisurely passing by and enjoying a glass of the excellent Sidewood Adelaide Hills NV Estate Sparkling, so good a second glass was ordered.

TASTING PLATE
SAFFRON ARANCINI WITH AIOLI AND PARMESAN
WHIPPED RICOTTA – GRILLED MARINATED VEGETABLES, OLIVE OIL AND CROSTINI – STICKY BALSAMIC PORK BELLY WITH APPLE AND PICKLED RED CABBAGE

To be fair their glassware although always better than any Adelaide pub was always probably quite unfairly, given the plate price, considered a bit substandard, especially their sparkling glasses. Their new glasses are much finer, perfect for Chardonnay and Pinot and red wines and even for those who enjoy a larger tulip for their sparkling or Champagne.

Bistro
delicious

FUSILLI PASTA WITH SLOW-BRAISED PORK AND VEAL RAGU, ROSEMARY AND PANGRATTATO

Pasta ragu is a personal favourite, so my main choice was Fusilli pasta with slow-braised pork and veal ragu, rosemary and pangrattato. A tiny bit spicy, perfectly seasoned and not burdened with excessive rosemary it was scrumptious and such a generous portion I couldn’t manage more than two-thirds.

For those who don’t think a main is complete without sides, their Food Festival sides are available at $7.50 per.

LEMON CHEESECAKE WITH GRANOLA AND STRAWBERRY GEL

The little sweetie shot to finish was textural perfection…creamy light lemony cheesecake, some crunch from granola with pepitos and a dash of sweetness with the strawberry gel. You can add a dessert from their a la carte menu for $9.50 but at lunch the amount of food is more than sufficient.

The only time I am tempted to take the dessert up-sell at lunchtime, regardless of how stuffed I am feeling is their awesome Tiramisu.

My preference for dining at the River Cafè changes with the season…I love lunch Autumn and Winter and dinner in Summer especially those hot summer nights when the windows are rolled away and the restaurant becomes like a floating pavilion.

Reservations for their Food Festival can only be made by phone and their phones are manned Tuesday to Saturday from 10.30 am until late. Whilst walkins are welcomed it is always a help to any restaurant to make a reservation.

"

this is a mate's restaurant

author’s admission

I do the website and marketing for the director/executive chef Ray Mauger and we have been colleagues since 1998 when we opened the Radisson Hotel [now the Sebel] on North Terrace. The River Cafè has not been reviewed by us since we published Galaxy Guides in 2004, twenty years ago. ….they deserve an educated review and this is it.

ANN OLIVER 21 MAY 2024

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