a tasty and interesting snack
The season for green almonds is impossibly brief, however, vacced and frozen they keep well and can be hauled out at any time to make this tasty snack.
This recipe is a direct reference from this reference….however, I have taken the liberty of changing the spoon measures for grams and simplified the ½ a cup of curry leaves which I think leaves a margin for error of about 100% and omitted the chilli powder for fresh chilli.
The original recipe says ‘rubbed to remove the fuzzy outer layer’ and whilst I did find that rubbing them with a damp linen tea towel worked quite well, only the most significant fuzz was removed. Their recipe also suggests whole almonds and cashews also work well and whilst they say to reduce the weight to 300g I would leave it at 400g.
Not to acknowledge my friend Christine Baker for her never-ending generosity with produce and her time picking these kilos of green almonds and other fruits from her orchard as a gift for me. They have been mainly processed for Green Almond Ice Cream, just the almonds and sugar blitzed in the Thermo and vacced.
400g green almonds, as much as the fluff rubbed off as possible
40g ghee or clarified butter
5g black mustard seeds
5g fennel seeds
25g Lilliput [tiny] salted capers, not washed or soaked
4 stems of curry leaves, stripped
1-2 chillies finely chopped
5g Olssens smoked salt [or Maldon]
2g freshly and coarsely ground black pepper
20g strained lemon or lime juice
This is very quick, so it is best to get everything weighed out before starting in the underlined groups.
Preheat a wok, add the ghee and as soon as it is hot add the mustard and fennel seeds and capers and cook stirring over constantly until the capers are crisp. Add the next group and continue stirring over until the curry leaves are crispy, taste for salt. Remove from the heat pour over the juice, toss through and immediately tip out into a non-corrosive bowl.
Serve warm or at room temperature. Although not mentioned in the original recipe, rolling them through some chopped fresh mint is excellent.
Although green almonds are spread across multitudinous cuisines for some reason, even though almonds are widely grown in Australia I haven’t found any Australian culinary references.
The Spicy Green Almonds are referenced to India, but they are especially celebrated in the Middle Eastern and Afghani kitchens. Curiously it has not been until recent cookbook publications that dishes using green almonds have rated a mention. To check on this I went back to my earliest Middle Eastern cookbook, ‘The New Book of Middle Eastern Food’, by Claudia Roden, first published in 1968, my edition 1976 to check and found no mention. That led me to go through several other regarded cookbooks including Roden’s ‘The Book of Jewish Food’ and several others including ‘Medieval Cuisine of the Islamic World’. There is an index mention in my favourite Syrian cookbook ‘Scents and Flavours, a Syrian Cookbook‘ however it does not coincide with the index and I am still searching. Surprisingly, even Australian Gourmet Traveller doesn’t have a recipe for green almonds.
My friend Diana Hetzel, an amazing cook and so very widely read offered this book ‘Food of Life, Ancient Persian and Modern Iranian, Cooking and Ceremonies’ by Najmieh Batmanglij. There is a very interesting sounding dish with green almonds and lamb, we both think worthy of further investigation.
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